There was a new, architectural mood in the Versace autumn/winter collection in Milan.

It was seen first in graphic, structured, navy and black daywear where tailored military coats swung out from epaulette details on strong shoulders. Fur and leather bombers were paired with slim, above-the-knee skirts.

But it was most dramatic in a group of hand-beaded and embroidered industrial city-scape fashions, illustrated by Timothy Paulus Roeleff.

The Dutch counter-culture artist's paintings of Berlin were printed on neon yellow, fuchsia and purple trapeze-line dresses, with a collage of iconographic images from the Versace archive including photo-montages of 1980s supermodels with their faces replaced by cats and dogs.