At Burberry Prorsum Christopher Bailey’s resort featured lovely mixes of pattern and texture — overembroidered mesh and lace, jacquard florals, pebbly cottons and silks — worked in mostly sober hues with shots of acid green and some serious metal sightings. “There’s a bit of Nancy Spungen, aggressive and punk,” Bailey said, “but still subdued and romantic.”

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Jonathan Saunders achieved the goal of infusing his Resort collection with "a bit of joy" by using optimistic fabrics: shiny cotton sateen, changement chiffon, and acid-colored prints. They added a touch of what the designer called "opulent seventies richness" to the clothes. Though the overall effect was still clean-lined, the use of feminine details—a ruffle here, a drape there—was new. Saunders had also given some thought to ...