Thakoon Panichgul - Perfectly Balanced

(published in Nikki Style, September 2006)

When Thakoon Panichgul presented his debut 10-piece collection, his label "Thakoon" was immediately hailed as one to watch. Now with several seasons under his belt, and having been lauded one of New York's most promising young talents, Panichgul pushes himself even further and invites us to see the world from both ends of every spectrum.. I met with Panichgul in his Tribeca studio and found myself face-to-face with the soft-spoken designer whose design sensibilities come from within, but are refined by his drive for functionality and fueled by a love for the romantic.

Thakoon is a true reflection of the diverse mix of its designer. Thai-born Panichgul grew up in Omaha, Nebraska, obtained his business degree at Boston University, worked as a merchandiser for J.Crew, and wrote copy as a fashion editor for Harper's Bazaar all before pursuing formal studies at Parsons School of Design. Although Panichgul insists the transition into design was a challenging one, it seems he has found his true calling and has quickly become a favorite with the fashion press, top editors and stylists, socialites, and celebrities. He has become known for timelessly feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and innovative.

Working without a specific muse in mind, Panichgul designs for the fashion-confident woman. "She's confident. She loves fashion, and obviously doesn't mind spending money on it – but it isn't about screaming fashion. She has a nonchalant, prettier sensibility…not sexy per say, but risqué." As Panichgul stresses the confidence of the Thakoon woman, 1960's style icon and personality Julie Christie comes to mind, her comfort and strong sense of style.

Applauded for his ethereal, delicate pieces, understated richness and wearability, it is obvious that Panichgul finds delicate inspiration in art and photography, takes time in choosing material, and keeps focused by considering what women are actually wearing and what they want.

For his fall 2006 collection Panichgul was inspired by Tim Hawkinson's painting "Divan." "The Divan image is about being playful, which is a quality that I try to achieve in the collection, it's about something that is pretty, but more of a studied manner." Panichgul further explains, "[Hawkinson's] paintings are a bit scary, but this one is romantic…the painting is of a large tufted couch, but when you look closely at it you see all of these fairies coming out. It looks classic, but when you look deeper into it, it becomes fantasy."

With Thakoon's fall collection comprised of pieces that are sexy and playful as well as intelligent and serious, Divan's inspiration shines through. Panichgul conjured up a collection in mainly black and white sprinkled with large cape collars, stripes, corseted numbers, painted stitches, and dresses that look like separates. Styled lightly with chain necklaces and crimson lips, the collection delighted on the runway with each look warranting a second consideration and examination.

For spring Thakoon is shaping up as simple, elegant and classic, but expect to find a dose of playful wit in the detailing and overall feel. Although Panichgul does not consciously carry details from one collection to the next, he always works with the same thought process, taking one detail and blowing it up in different directions. Thakoon is currently selling two seasons a year, but Panichgul plans on adding a resort collection soon.

Having lived in New York City for some time now, Panichgul agrees that the city also plays a major part in his designs. "[Thakoon] definitely caters to a city girl. New York is so fast paced; you're constantly going from day to evening. Everything crosses over, and the chaos inspires me as well." Panichgul admits to talking long walks on the streets, just looking at the city, seeing what women are wearing and then keeping that New York City girl in mind. "You find a lot of inspiration – there is a lot to take in; you can find things for you. You can be whatever you want to be."

Panichgul also enjoys experimenting with material, which may have fueled his step into the design arena. Working from soft cotton silks to stiff, heavy jacquards Panichgul chooses from both ends of the spectrum, using the right fabric for the dreamed silhouettes, but also allowing the material to play some part in overall collection design and direction.

If Panichgul is constantly working to achieve a balance of pretty and strong, design and function, then his venture into shoe design really comes as no surprise. He is one of three designers chosen by Nine West as a part of their Project Front Row collaboration, including Sophia Kokosalaki and British fashion icon Vivienne Westwood for this fall. Thakoon for Nine West will hit stores in October with 11 styles, inspired by this year's spring and fall collections. Although this is Panichgul's first technical dive into shoe design, he has worked with Manolo Blahnik in creating shoes for his past shows, but with Nine West "it was completely free. I could do whatever I wanted to do," he says. Of course there were some constraints, "it's never designing in a bubble – its always keeping your customer in mind, and I think that is what good design is."

After his experience with both Manolo Blahnik and Nine West, Panichgul talks of expanding Thakoon with an accessories line in the near future, which one can only expect to be as beautiful, timeless and perfectly structured as his ready-to-wear.